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The rear drum hitch was sheared off
I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.
After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy. I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.
Dryer would not even turn on. Removed 2 screws holding thermal limiter switch and removed t
Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan
The dyer functioned fine, but was not producing any heat.
The repair was a bit more simple that what I had read here earlier, to see if I could handle it or I would have to call someone. The biggest relief was that I didn't have to remove any of the connectors from the control panel. Only 4 total connectors were removed at the Heating Element itself. Here's the steps I performed: 1) Pop the top off by prying the lid to release the 2 front clips and lift the top all the way up (like the hood of a car). Rest this against a door or wall. 2) Remove the rear access panel (2 phillips screws) on the bottom left of the unit. Remove the tension from the dryer belt and take it off the pully. 3) Go back to the front and remove (4 allen heads) from the back of the dryer drum. The drum should now have some play. 4) remove a plastic retainer that stops the drum from being lifted out. Now you should be able to lift out the drum. There is a ball & socket fitting that needs to come apart. This can be done by sharply lifting straight up. This gives you access to the heating element and you should be able to see where the coil has burned, thus opening the circuit. 5) remove (4 phillips screws) from the back panel of the dryer. Remove two pairs of connectors that attach to the heating element. Now it's out and you can begin the swap of the new element and reverse this process to put it back together. If I had to do this again, it would take less approx 30 minutes.
The dryer was over-heating, the vents had been cleaned to it wasn't the vent, but something wrong with the dryer. The Thermal Limiter was a cheap try to see if it would fix the problem.
The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.
watched video on replacing rear bearing.although rear bearing was not the part(s) i needed to replace, video instructed disassembly procedures to get to the drum glides. this was a very simple and easy to follow video. repair was a breezeand took roughly 25 minutes. the most time consuming segement of repair was vaccuuming out lint,that was 15 minutes. In future, as a preventative, i plan to remove front of machine to clean annually. Thank you.
Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap
The easiest way is taking the back off the dryer but if you can't do that just pop the top up and unscrew the front. Just make sure you remember how you take everything out and put it back in the same.
The most difficult part is trying to line up the holes for the heating element, and holding it there while screwing the element in place.
the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!
Disconect power, Removed top and front of dryer. The broken zipper was easly removed at this point. The plastic glides easly snap out and in. The felt took some more time to scrape off and clean the old glue. Glue the new felt into place and replace front and top. The parts were shiped promptly and the dryer was out of service for only three days.
First, I shut off the gas & unplugged the dryer. Then I disconnected the vent pipe so I could pull it away from the wall to access the back. Disassembling the dryer was simple. there are 8 screws: 2 for rear access panel, 2 for top, & 4 for front panel! Once front panel is off, lift back of drum up 2 inches, then forward to get rear bearing out of it's bracket. My rear bearing had worn down so much it was 1/2 the size of the new one! It wore through the bracket down to the metal! I replaced the rear bearing & bracket assembly, as well as the belt & the spring for the belt tensioner! make sure you generously lubricate the new bearing as well as the tensioner pulley! The most time consuming part of this job was cleaning all the lint out the dryer cabinet& cleaning the drum. It works great now! I hope to get a few more years out of it!
I determined the problem was the fan wheel and housing. I located the part on partsselect.com, Ordered it and installed the afternoon I got it in the mail. Perfect fit.
I have used partsselect before, always had great luck, great prices, always have the exact part.