Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on. If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed that rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
Burner head arrived when I got home from work. Just timely to cook for dinner that monday night, got the 4 burners disconnect the element from the old burner, then connect element to the new bunners, in less than 10 mins, and I had save estimate $600 buying a brand new stove or gas range, this will last me another5 to 10 years. Especially this time of recession
I replaced the broken grommets with the new ones. I purchased 8 so I would have back ups because I did not feel the new one would last either. I think they cost TOO MUCH but I could not haggle for price.
The burner rusted after years of spaghetti pots boiling over. When I went to twist the the burner to remove it the top portion broke off. This left the bottom side of the burner stuck into the cook-top. I put some 3-in-1 oil on the rusted rim for a day or two. I had to drill the phillips head screw and twist it with a vise grip. I used a pair of pliers to grab the center of the broken-off burner part. After a few tries it broke loose and was out. The rest was easy. I recommend sealing the rim between the burner and the cook-top. I used silicone sealant. This should keep the water from leaking underneath the burner and into the cook-top.
The burner failed to light when the knob was placed on pilot.
I simply twisted the defective burner off by hand in a counter clockwise direction. Then I removed the two electrical wires attached to the burner and simply connected the new one. Presto, like magic, the burner problem was fixed in approximately 3 minutes.
Removed old burners using adjustable wrench; about a quarter turn counter clock wise and lifted up. Removed igniter wires. Had to remove solder tab on new burner to match wire's connector then simply attached to new burner. Replaced burner and turned quarter turn clockwise and done.
burner would not light; ignitor did not produce spark
Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.
Sealed burner caps were rusted within and gas leak through the bottom of the caps
Just used a car oil filter band type wrench and rotated the sealed burner cap a 1/4 turn. cleaned up the rust and dirty. Replaced it with the new cap and tightened it with a 1/4 turn by hand. Instruction can be found on Maytag gas installation manual. The burners are working well and just like a new range.
Burners would not light and the flame would come out from the bottom of the burner.
A quarter turn counter-clockewise and the burner came out. Disconnect the old wires and connect the new wires. Place the burner in its place and a quarter turn clockwise and it was set.
The burner igniter would not spark to light the burner.
I had to unscrew 4 screws on the burner unit and then 2 screws on each igniter. slip the olds out and the new ones in and then replace all the screws. And wa la they sparked and I was cooking again.