KRMF706ESS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

I removed the ice bucket and motor cover on the inside of the left door. Then I removed the 4 screws that hold the motor in place and unplugged the electrical connector. The old motor shaft was all rusted and housing was cracked letting water inside the motor. That's why it failed. The new motor I ordered from Part select came with a rubber seal that I slipped on to the motor shaft. That will stop any water from entering the new dispencer motor. I reinstalled motor and the dispencer works great. Total time for removal and replace was 20 min. A novice can do it. Bill WI.

Unscrewed the old one and put the new one in
Some water on shelf of fridge
Overall not bad

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Opened filter housing, yanked out old filter, screwed in new filter - one turn.
For the air filter, opened housing. Lifted out old filter, dropped in new, closed housing.

Remove first cover remove the light panel and replace it
Install everything back...

From Donna Turner acct # 190766

I ordered Refrigerator/freezer light board PS11702378

You substituted for a single light module

I troubleshooted and decided to order from your company the light board. You changed my order. I researched what you sent and thought, ok, we'll identify the one light that is out and replace only that...

My paid electrician spend well over an hour inside the frig, and confirmed that all 3 lights in fact work fine, and the problem is above the wiring harness, and what you sent is not correct.

The package has been opened. You substituted my ordered part, it did not remedy the problem, I want a full refund, including S&H

Please advise/sent me Return Authorization, whatever your company policy is.

Thank you. Donna Turner

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

ONCE WE KNEW THE COMPRESSOR WAS NO LONGER FUNCTIONING , USED A MULTI METER TO VERIFY 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WAS PRESENT, FOUND 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WITH NO VOLTAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR. OHMS OUT THE COMPRESSOR, FOUND IT WAS WITH IN SPECS. REPLACED THE INVERTER AND ALL IS WELL ONCE AGAIN.

Back cover was wet in the area of the inlet valve(sign). Water on the floor. 90% of the time is a leaking inlet valve. But it could be frozen water on the drain pan- so I exposed the radiator fins and drain pan and looked. No ice so I went to the valve and opened the copper line valve and waited a few minutes- as soon as water was called by the. Ice maker it leaked. So I went ahead and replaced the valve and after I made sure no leaks were visible I replaced the back cover and continued to observe and all was good. I treated the fridge as a new installation, changed filter and dumped the next two ice buckets. Then I proceeded to demand brownie points.