The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.
Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.
Unfolded gasket and heated with a hair dryer to soften and straighten it. Pulled old gasket out by prying straight out from door channel. Start at bottom corners so that gasket is hanging free when finished. Starting at upper corner press new gasket into door channels. Proceed around perimeter pressing the gasket in and making sure the gasket is spread flat. Done.
Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.
Obviously remove the glass shelf and supports plus all three drawers first. Being as there are no screws or visible means by which the Pantry Drawer End Cap is attached and being as the part entails removal of the vent slider from the back, there presents a problem. The backside of the end cap has hooks that clip into the side of the refrigerator wall. Use caution in raising the end cap up to release the clips. It does help using the screwdriver beneath the end cap and some movement with hands but it will come up along with the backside attachment. That isn’t the problem. The difficulty is in (1) noting and remembering how the assembly came off and apart. (2) Putting the moving parts inside of the end cap like they came out and (3) replacing the back and side at the same time. The back assembly has a clip that inserts to the left. It is important to insert that first. The side portion inserts by placing above the slots and pushing in (to the right) and down at the same time. It all comes together and you will wonder how you did it.
Refrigerator would ice up around the condenser and through out the air vents. Stopping all air flow in the refrigerator. If you defrosted the refrigerator it would work for about 24 hours then ice up again.
Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.
Compressor would not run. My daughter was told that compressor was bad and needed to be replaced. Cost would be $550 labor plus parts. I could hear a clicking sound I believe was made by the starter relay. I ordered the parts from part select and had them in three days.
I took the screws out of back panel and slid water line and panel off to the right side while I removed the capacitor and starter relay. Relay was probably the only problem, but I replaced capacitor too while I was doing the repair. Finished removal and replacement in about 20 minutes. While I had panel off I cleaned coils that I could see from behind and then did the same on front side. Cost was $136 for both parts. I could have done it for $71 if I did not replace the capacitor too. Saved my daughter from being taken advantage of.
Original bracket foot brake screw hole was stripped and foot brake would not extend
The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.
The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.
To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.
Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.
Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.
Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.
Remove the crisper baskets, Hinged lid, Glass shelves, support bars, and to make it easier - the door bins. There are no screws on the end caps for this model of fridge, unlike some YouTube videos you might see. There's a release catch nearly in the middle of the cap. With your index finger, press down on the tab, to release the catch, while lifting the front of the end cap. The end cap should lift up and away from the side wall of your fridge. Be careful to then rotate the entire assembly - in the case of the right side end cap - towards you, so that you can disengage the tab on the crisper drawer temp controller, that fits in the back wall of the fridge. Once you've unhooked the control rods to the crisper temp. control, you'll need to remove the crisper drawer runners. Again - on this model, there are no screws. The runners just slide out from underneath their retaining plastic tabs. Slide them towards what would be the front of the fringe if they were in their natural position, they clear the retaining tabs and become free. The control rods need to be re-attached on the new end cap.. just take your time click it between the various plastic tab. Then insert the end tab of the crisper temp control in the back wall, rotate the entire assembly 90 degrees, so the end cap is aligned with the slide wall, and lower it into position until the retailing clip clicks into position. Congratulations, you've replaced your right side end cap! Then reinstall all the supports, shelves, bins etc. and you're good to go. Good Luck!
