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Dishwasher made a grinding sound - very loud. Did a poor job cleaning.
I took the lower pump assembly apart to find the problem. The biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the cover. In the center, the assembly is held together with a round plastic nut about 1.5 inches in diameter - simply rotate it counter-clockwise to remove. I then removed the pump housing and found the impeller broken in two and the disk that was supposed to be attached to the top of the pump housing broken off. This was causing the noise and greatly reduced efficiency of the pump. I replaced the impeller and upper pump housing (bought the gasket too since it is hard to remove the old one) and put everything back together using the diagrams provided on the site. While many rate this repair as "easy" - it is only after you figure everything out! If you knew exactly what you were doing, the project could be done in 10 minutes. I had to study the diagram and it took me some time to disassemble, figure out what was wrong, read posts, order parts and reassemble. I also replaced the handle which had broken on one side which was simple. Part select is outstanding - I've used this site for my fridge, oven and now dishwasher and have avoided expensive service calls. If you are technically inclined and patient, you can repair your own appliances.
Not getting clean dishes; filter kept getting cloged.
After removing parts, cleaned both upper and lower spray arms, blew out lead to the upper arm, and started to install the new parts.
Unfortunately, the Pump Housing Filter was still cold (freezing weather during shipment and left at the front door) and when I started to bend it into shape it broke in two places. So I tolk the old filter and some Lime away and slowly cleaned it with soft brush to open 95% of the holes. Once ready it was installed along with the other new parts and the dishwasher works very well.
Diagnosed potential problem from scematic diagram found at Parts Select .Com by entering model #. It was very likely the inlet water solenoid. Tear down was simple: Turn off water, disconnect water lines to and from solenoid, disconnect two electric terminals and remove part by removing two screws from dishwasher chasis. Before you buy the new solenoid, unscrew the water inlet elbow from solenoid and check the filter/screen inside the solenoid to make sure it isn't clogged. Assuming it's not, order the replacement part and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to use plumber's tape on screw connections to make sure there are no leaks..... Also for ease of acces, you'll need to turn the dishwaher down on it's front. Put towels down to cushion the front and keep the controls from contact with the floor. Good luck!!
My racks were rusting, and a few tines had fallen off
First I did the top - getting the ends off the track is simple, flip the ends "open" like a book on each side, and remove the caps. Pull out the rack, replace with the new one and replace the caps. Bottom rack was easier once I figured out how to remove the spray tower. Grab it firmly and twist. Place it in the new rack, and roll it into the DW. I'm a fairly handy woman, and this was quite easy.
1) turned off power to dishwasher 2) removed each piece of pump assembly (one at a time) from inside the dishwasher. I had no repair manual and didn't know that by rotating the lock lever under the dishwasher, I could have easily removed the entire pump assembly as a unit. 3) Reassmebled the pump assembly using new parts and installed in dishwasher. 4) Reconnected hoses and electrical connection 5) Turned power back on 6) Washed dishes... it's as good as new!!!!
Our 16 year old dishwasher's top rack lost most of the coated metal 'prongs' that separated/supported items on the upper rack.
With a straight edge screwdriver I carefully removed the plastic end caps on the rack support glider-shelves, replaced the old rack with the new rack, and then reattached the end caps.
I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.
I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.
Old rack assembly was rolled out , the plastic water disperser was twisted off of the old rack and placed on the new rack assembly. The new rack was rolled into place. Project complete.
Using the part list (on your web site)as a guide to remove the parts,Part 32 remove by hand turning counter clockwise,remove screws #5,remove parts(33,34,31,2). Remove #36 remove 4,3,,6,7,,8,9,remove screws#27 then remove #11 which has a plate part of it but broke on the underside (you can't see it in the picture)it will rub on the fins of part#14 during the cycle when dishes are being washed creating a grinding noise. i Do suggest to replace the seals,38,37,you may coat the new seals with liquid hand soap for easier installation.
Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.
All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.
Was discouraged seeing rust on both upper and lower racks. Remebered prior dishwasher and $300+ estimate for the racks. But the rusty parts were only some of the small moveable parts of the rack. Each one just snapped out, and the replacement snapped in. No tools at all. Five minutes and $55 later the racks looked new.
Most difficult was figuring out how to release the top rack...just flip the end pieces to the side and out they come. Next was removing and reinserting the spray head in the bottom rack...just twist and take out then align and twist into place in the new rack.
The only tricky part was fixed by reading another post on this website -- removing the plastic endcaps on the steel sliding brackets. This is a necessary step before replacing the wheels because the bracket needs to slide between two fully installed wheels.
To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.
The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.