KitchenAid Refrigerator Elements and Burners
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Popular KitchenAid Refrigerator Elements and Burners
Your Price
$101.27
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator FLIPPER MULLION Assembly COMPL XL
PartSelect Number PS11756814
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10624451
Fixes these symptoms
- Door won’t open or close
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Installation Instructions
Steven from DANVERS, MA
Plastic broke internally would allow the door to close.
That 1 Phillips screw out push up disconnect electrical plug put new one in by going in the opposite way.
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Your Price
$88.51
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator DEFROST HEATER
PartSelect Number PS11738607
Manufacturer Part Number WP12729128
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- Frost buildup
- See more...
Your Price
$61.05
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator Heater, Defrost
PartSelect Number PS11740459
Manufacturer Part Number WP2323198
The heater is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation. The thermostat must be replaced when replacing the defrost heater.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Your Price
$97.52
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator Heater
PartSelect Number PS11738606
Manufacturer Part Number WP12729127
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Your Price
$88.06
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator Heater, Defrost
PartSelect Number PS11740358
Manufacturer Part Number WP2315531
This part is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation to keep the cooling coils from frosting over. The thermostat must be replaced when replacing the defrost heater.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
A. M. from Bay Minette, AL
Water was dripping from the freezer into the non-frozen area, and the non-frozen area was not cooling
I first disconnected the power cord and then removed all the panels and disconnected the Defrost Heater at the quick-disconnect, and cut the wires on the Defrost Themostat. (The Defrost Thermostat had been replaced about 10 years ago when the Defrost Heater was replaced.) One of the reasons it took longer than 15 minutes was because there was a buildup of ice in the freezer section. I then soldered the wires and covered them with a plastic sleeve and wrapped them in electrical tape. After replacing all the panels and re-connecting the power cord, I restarted the refrigerator. After one week, there is no water dripping from the freezer and everything is working properly. Your diagnosis of the problem was exactly right. Thanks for the info.
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Your Price
$93.13
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator Defrost Heater
B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10 Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740357
Manufacturer Part Number WP2315530
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- Frost buildup
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Teri from West Valley City, UT
We were getting ice forming in the freezer compartment and water in the frig compartment
A. remove food from freezer and store in cooler etc.B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10 Read more...
Your Price
$92.03
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator Defrost Heater
none found, I looked into the freezer area to see if fan was working ,it was, noticed ice built up on the outside of the metal cover letting me know it was not defrosting ,It was easier for myself to pull freezer door off , then the ice-maker,only three 1/4" hex head bolts,two 1/4" hex bolts only holding the metal cover . The quickest way to defrost was using a blow hair drier .once it was all defrosted I disconnected the defrost heater and using a volt/ohm meter,I ohm out the element,finding out I had no reading .The one thing I forgot to mention, unplug the frigertor first !!! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11743496
Manufacturer Part Number WP67002493
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
mark from destin, FL
no cold air coming into refrigerator area, all frozen up
first I looked into the refrigerator for blockage of air flow.none found, I looked into the freezer area to see if fan was working ,it was, noticed ice built up on the outside of the metal cover letting me know it was not defrosting ,It was easier for myself to pull freezer door off , then the ice-maker,only three 1/4" hex head bolts,two 1/4" hex bolts only holding the metal cover . The quickest way to defrost was using a blow hair drier .once it was all defrosted I disconnected the defrost heater and using a volt/ohm meter,I ohm out the element,finding out I had no reading .The one thing I forgot to mention, unplug the frigertor first !!! Read more...
Your Price
$103.34
In Stock
Your Price
$107.25
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator Defrost/Evaporator Heater
The next thing you have to do is remove one of the slide rail supports so you can remove the back panel. Slide the track all the way out and you will see three small machine screws securing the track to the side of the freezer wall. Remove. Then push in the plastic clasp (near the back of the compartment) and slide the plastic assembly forward and out of the compartment. Now you can unscrew and remove the back panel to access the thermostat and heater.
I checked the resistance of the existing heater and measured 300 ohms (it would have been an open circuit if it was burned out). When I saw the resistance was OK on the heater, I left it in place and only changed out the thermostat. The defrost has worked fine since. Good luck. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11743472
Manufacturer Part Number WP67001794
The defrost heater is similar to the burners on an electric stove. It's located just beneath the cooling coils, which are concealed behind a panel in the freezer compartment. The heater gets hot. And, because it's close to the cooling coils, any ice or frost build-up melts.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer too cold
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
James from Chestnut Hill, MA
Defrost failed. Freezer icing up
(FYI, Amana model is re-labeled Maytag with similar model number)I earlier replaced the defrost timer but that didn't solve the problem, so I purchased a new thermostat and evaporator heater. The hardest part was figuring out how to remove the slide out freezer door to access the back panel. Simple once figured out: There is one small screw on each slide rail, facing outward, near the door. Remove each screw and the door section will pivot up and disconnect from the rail. The next thing you have to do is remove one of the slide rail supports so you can remove the back panel. Slide the track all the way out and you will see three small machine screws securing the track to the side of the freezer wall. Remove. Then push in the plastic clasp (near the back of the compartment) and slide the plastic assembly forward and out of the compartment. Now you can unscrew and remove the back panel to access the thermostat and heater.
I checked the resistance of the existing heater and measured 300 ohms (it would have been an open circuit if it was burned out). When I saw the resistance was OK on the heater, I left it in place and only changed out the thermostat. The defrost has worked fine since. Good luck. Read more...
Your Price
$93.99
In Stock
KitchenAid Refrigerator Defrost Heater
PartSelect Number PS11743479
Manufacturer Part Number WP67002135
This part is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation to keep the cooling coils from frosting over. The thermostat must be replaced when replacing the defrost heater.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
David from AKRON, OH
Refrigerator was cold but bottom freezer was not cold enough to freeze bread or ice cream.
I had previously replaced the defrost timer and thermostat but the freezer was still not cold enough and was frosting up. After replacing the heater element I was disappointed that all the ice melted and the refrigerator was warming up. We were looking for a replacement appliance, but after the second day the freezer and refrigerator were working perfectly! It just took some time to cycle enough to catch up.
Read more...
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