I simply remove the broken knob just like I do when cleaning. To place the new knob, I matched the flat part of knob opening with the flat part of the shaft, returning to off position.
continually having to replace the knobs because they are made of cheap plastic and split down the side for whatever reason I don't know. I do not know what I am doing to cause them to split down a side. Why can't they be made of a heavier metal?
took old one off with fingers replace with new one with a new knob again
I have been trying to find replacement knobs for months. I was having difficulty locating the model # on my actual cooktop and was told time and time again without it I would be out of luck. The # on the knob apparently meant nothing, go figure. This website actually had a picture!!!!! Eureka!!! I located my knobs! Great price, simple to put on, this website made my day. Thanks!!!!! :)
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and then rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
Having replaced 3 knobs already, I was still experiencing splitting of the knob shaft where it fits over burner control shaft
To reinforce 5 knobs after replacing 3 knobs earlier using the "simple" replacement of knobs: My 19 year old daughter mixed a 15 minute two part epoxy glue and coated the outside of the plastic knob shaft (first placing a q-tip in the center of the shaft opening to protect from glue entry into knob engagement channel). She then wrapped the wire in a close spiral so each turn touched the previous one (like a spring), leaving the wire ends long enough to twist around knob ears to hold firmly in place during cure of glue. She then coated the outisde of the wire turns with more epoxy to encase the wire and secure wire in place. After curing, she cut the wire ends off so they were flush with knob shaft and installed knobs on burner stems. Hopefully a permanent solution as you shouldn't have to modify replacement parts.
Ordered new knobs from part select ,they arrived very quickly. I took off the metal clips that where in the old knobs.(these clips where still on the metal post because the broke away from the plastic knobs.) Then I just pushed on the knobs nothing to it.
Shaft of original burner knob had split and no longer controlled the selector shaft
The broken knob had previously been removed. I grasped the replacement knob between my thumb and forefinger, held the knob in a vertical position and pressed it down onto the selector shaft. The quality control supervisor (otherwise known as "the wife") examined the project and issued a certificate of acceptance. And then cooked dinner.
The ceramic insulator on the burner ignitor cracked & the spark shorted so that the burner would not ignite.
Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reconnected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!