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DE271JDW1 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DE271JDW1
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Catch broke, door wouldn't stay closed.
Used a screwdriver to pop out broken piece. Used pliers to snap in new one.
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • Dianne from Kansas City, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
72 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
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Terminal Block Melts when power cord connector is left loose by install crew.
1) Removed Top Dryer Cover (pushed 2 compression clips on front side 1" from top and 2" in from each side) to gain access to terminal block in rear.
2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord,
3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block.
4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block.
5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws.
6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws.
7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Arthur from Grand Prairie, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
47 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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Torn Lint Screen
Actually, I didn't install the frame. I only needed the lint screen. So EASY, obviously... I just placed the new lint screen in the old frame. We had been messing around with the torn lint screen for more than one year. Installing the new part was as easy as ordering from PartSelect.
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • David from Birmingham, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
36 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken Dryer Belt
1st I pried the dryer top open then disconnected the two wires for the auto shut-off. Removed four nuts with driver that opens front and releases dryer barrel. Lifted front up a bit to remove from two lower tabs at bottom of unit and put aside.

I then slid the belt over the barrel noting the side up directions on the belt. On the lower left on the back of unit I opened up the vented cover to reveal the motor pulley and belt tension pulley. I put the belt on the pulley and brought the belt tension pulley over the belt. I then aligned the belt to the proper point on the barrel and reattached the front being careful to center the barrel onto the rim that is built into the front. Take care to align all the tabs and shims in the correct order so that barrel rotates freely. Replace auto shut off wires to switch on inside of front and close top.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Belt
  • Tod from West Springfield, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken door latch receptical
Removed broken part. Pressed replacement into opening.
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • Joseph from North Chatham, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burning odor, melted terminal block
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • DAVID from DURHAM, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door Latch broke and fell out
remove new latch from package, insert into dryer door frame push into place with thumb until it snaps into place. Done!
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • James from ALLENSTOWN, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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lint screen was torn
Removed 2 screws and replaced part--very easy.
I was very happy to find this part for a 1988 dryer
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • Anne from Riverview, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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old screen rusty and torn off from frame - the dryer is quite old but works very well.
Unscrewed old frame, removed it and put in the new one. Now I have a brand new dryer. Thanks!
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • Bindy from Memphis, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Terminal block, and wires were dammaged/melted
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Edwin from Eagar, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Auto Dry would not cut off and took long time to dry.
1. I disconnected power cord
2. I used putty knife to loosen top by pressing into
the front spring clips holding it down and lifted the
front of the lid up against the back hinges and leaned
it back against a wall at the back of the machine.
3. Then I unscrewed the two screws at the top of the
inside of the front panel edges and unclipped the
wires from the door switch and then crimped the
metal clips holding the front panel to the main
body sides and then leaned the top of the front panel
toward the front and lifted it out and put it aside.
4. I then went to the back of the machine and undid the
two screws holding the motor area access panel and
took it off and put it aside. I then released the drum
belt tensioner and moved the belt away from the motor
pulley.
5. Then I removed the drum by lifting up on it so that the
ball axle could be pulled outward and then proceeded to
take the belt off and work the drum out of the front
panel opening and put it aside.
6. Once the drum was removed one could see the heating coil
assembly attached to the inside back of the dryer. One
needs to take off the two wires attached to the coil
spade connectors that are located at the ceramic
insulator. I decided to take out the whole assembly by
undoing the four screws at the outside back of the dryer.
7. Once the assembly is out of the dryer, then it becomes
necessary to remove the spade terminals from the
ceramic insulator, One must unbend the metal flanges
that have been bent at the base of the spade coneetors
at the surface of the insulator and then pull out the
spade connectors. Once this is done, then one can
unconnect the coil from the ceramic insulators holding it
to the assembly. Once the coil is disconnected one can
put in the new coil into the ceramic insulators, insert
the spade connedtors into the insulator, bend the
flanges to retain it and then reverse the disassembly
sequence for the assembly to complete the job.
Outcome,(I saved the old coil in case I need it in the
future.)
Outcome
Parts Used:
Heating Element Restring Coil with 1/4" Terminals
  • Peter from Harrngton, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken belt
My local repair parts shop did not have the part in stock. Shipping was really fast, so I repaired the dryer in less time than it would have taken if I had let my local shop order the belt for me. Repair was simple, just unplug dryer, pry up the front of the top, remove 4 screws from the top inside of front panel, disconnect two wires from door switch, pull front off, and slip belt around tub. Remove small panel on rear (2 screws), place belt around pulley and move tensioner in place. Reassemble front panel and rear panel.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Belt
  • Jerry from Hartselle, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Scratching noise, wouldn't heat
First make sure dryer is unplugged.Next beware of sharp edges, this dryer has plenty. Remove 2 screws from kick panel,remove kick panel. Lay the kick panel aside, it makes a good "bowl" to hold screws.Remove 2 screws from top, located on back,remove top.Unplug the 2 sets of wiring connecting the front panel, the zip tie has to be unzipped, and if stripped should be replaced when reassembling. Remove 2 screws inside cabinet that hold front panel, near top. Remove 2 screws that hold front panel, in front and at bottom of front panel. Front panel is held in place by spring loaded clips, remove by pulling outward,a putty knife may be slid in to persuade it to pop off, be careful of scratching paint. There is a small panel on the back of the dryer held by 2 screws, remove to access the pulley that maintains tension on belt and release belt. Pay attention to the belt route through the tensioner to insure eaiser assembly later. Remove nylon drum retainer in front of cabinet at top, held in place by 1 screw. The drum may be lifted out and placed aside to access the heating unit(Don't place it on a hill, HaHa). The entire heating unit may be replaced, I opted to replace just the element, as it is much cheaper.
Use a flat screw driver to slip old female plugs off male element plugs, Use needle nose pliers to flatten tabs that hold male plugs of element in the ceramic housing. Remove old element, being careful not to damage any of the insulators. If the new element is not stretched out to about 46 inches "relaxed", carefully stretch it. Place one insulator slightly off-center on the element and place it into element housing. Plug in element into ceramic plug housing and bend the tabs to retain it. carefully begin putting in insulators, one at a time and reattaching element. Do not bend the element or cause any of the coils to touch each other. When all insulators are in place, plug in element and assemble dryer in reverse order. Mke sure belt is oriented with grooved side facing drum, and reach through the rear access panel to run belt through tensioner, make sure spring is attached with s-hook ends and belt is properly threaded. Reaasmble in reverse order, being careful to make sure drum bearing is seated properly, and drum "ring" of front panel is centered in drum. After dryer is assembled try it out on cool and work your way up to hot, and let it run a few minutes to get rid the new smell. Hope this will help.
Parts Used:
Heating Element Restring Coil with 1/4" Terminals
  • Richard from Pleasant Garden, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Belt broke and the pulley broke.
I unplugged the dryer. Undid the top by taking out 2 screws and mounts on each side of the back. There were two screws in the front panel that had to be removed. One on each side. Then I took the two wires off the killer switch on the door. Marking which was top and which was bottom. Then I removed the front panel. Then I undid the drum which had 3 screws in. I took out the drum to find the problem. I replaced the drum putting the belt on. Then I took off the back panel at the bottom of the dryer to get at the idler arm. Took off the spring and unhooked the arm. I put the new arm on and replaced the spring. I then put the belt on to the pulley and closed up the back panel. I put back the front panel. I put the top back on. I plugged it back in and turned it on and it worked!
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • Donald from Windber, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wouldn't heat
1. Lift the dryer top off to get to the two screws holding the front of dryer. 2. On the back bottom left of the dryer, remove the vent so you can get to the tension pully to loosen the belt around the drum. 3. Remove drum. 4. Disconnet element coil from wires. 5. Carefully remove element coil from ceramic holders. 6. Get new element coil and attach to wires while carefully keeping coil loose and untangled. 7. Again, carefully restring coil into ceramic holders without springing the coil making it misshapen. Once all of the coil is in the holders, retrace your steps. 8. While you have the appliance open, it's a good time to vacuum out all lint to prevent a fire from occuring. 9. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS UNPLUG THE APPLIANCE BEFORE WORKING ON IT!
Parts Used:
Heating Element Restring Coil with 1/4" Terminals
  • Gaylena from Monroe, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the DE271JDW1
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