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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.
put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go
Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.
Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED. Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.
Freezer and fresh food section getting warm due to inside coils frosting over.
No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.
Loud clicking noise and the temperature was not stable.
Took out the old parts and replaced it with the new parts. The new OVERLOAD PTCR COMBO was different then the one that we replaced so we called customer service and they told us which wire to insert into each of the 2 slots and it is working like new again. Outstanding and knowledgeable customer service.
It was super easy! The glass came packaged and safe. Once I unwrapped it, I slid it in the firdge and it just popped into place. So super easy. And now we know for next time when taking it out to clean, (the reason it shattered in the first place) you should let the glass get to room tempurature before cleaning it with water or it will shatter! OOPS!
Move the refrigerator away from the wall. Disconnect the refrigerator. Remove bottom drawer. Remove two criisper drawers. Remove crisper drawer slides, one bolt near the front of each slide. Push slides off pin at back. Remove bottom panel at the back of the refrigerator to access fan. Remove fan, held with a couple of screws. Remove rubber gasket from around old fan and put the gasket around new fan. install new fan and bolt in place. Replace lower panel at back at back of refrigerator. Reinstall drawer slides, hook at back and bold at front Reinstall drawers. Reconnect refrigerator power. Push refrigerator back in place and adjust feed to hold in place.
Freezer not getting cold enough to freeze ice cream
I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in. The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from a website even if it seems like a sure thing
Crisper Pan Glass accidentally dropped and crashed!!!
Search online and came across PARTSELECT website!!! this is amazing when I opened the website and see a labeled drawing, so I know what part number to order, it arrived on time and when I install it fits very well, one lesson I've learned is whenever you removed this glass in the chiller box you have to reinstall the glass properly by inserting one of the side to the insert slide of the chiller so it will not move! I'M VERY HAPPY!!!! THANKS!!!
Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.
Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long
Water trickling out of refrigerator water dispenser.
1. Verified good water flow by unplugging incoming water and makIng sure there was good pressure.
2. Re-attached water supply line and unplugged water line after the electronic valve to test water pressure from valve when hitting the dispense button in the front of the refrigerator.
Found very little flow directly after the valve.
Replaced valve and now everything is good. (Refrigerator is less than 2 years old)