Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit. My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts. The element is working great now. Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
My Jenn-Air is an "antique." The filter was disgusting!
I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!
Falling apart 20 year old grease filter for downdraft counter rangetop
Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.
First I cut off power supply, removed screws that held panel on, pulled the switch up and disconnected wires. Installed new switch, being sure to connect wires in the correct places. Refastened panel to stove top. Turned power back on and tested switch and it Worked.
One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair. The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges. I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware. After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.
Oven Door wouldn't fully close and light stayed on.
Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.
Purchased 1 infinite switch and installed it on the left front burner. problem still there so I used the switch that I replaced on the rear burner and all was ok. The front switch had been sending full heat to the rear burner,but the problem ended up with the rear switch. The switches are interconnected and all are the same part number.Diagrams on partsselect were the key to a successful repair.To access the switch you need only to remove the fan cover, remove the 2 screws holding the switch assembly and move it foreward and then lift to reveal slide on connectors. Power to the unit is off at the main panel during the entire process.
Our Jenn-Air cook top is 25 years old. One can no longer order parts for this old of model. We ordered new SS burners as well as new Burner cartridge terminal blocks for a new and current model. They work perfectly. Took 10 minutes. $ 350 dollars verses $ 2600 for a new JennAir range plus instillation. Unit looks and works great. Plan to order new switches next.
Two heating elements couldn't be controlled - full on
Turned off power.
Removed two screws to free up section of cooktop containing 4 switches - 2 good, 2 damaged. Removed the dials from top of the 2 damaged switches. With an adjustable wrench, loosed nut on stem of switch that fastened switch to assembly. Noted which of the 5 wires on each switch went on which tab. Pulled off 5 wires on one switch, finished removing the nut and removed broken switch. Put in new switch, attached the nut, and replaced 5 wires in exactly the same position, Tightened nut. Replaced dial. Repeated procedure for second switch. Placed section containing the 4 switches back on cooktop and inserted/tighted 2 screws holding it in place.
Turned on power.
Told cleaning people to NEVER put aluminum foil under the burner units again. The foil shorted across the power and damaged the switches.
This was a piece of cake since the parts were a perfect replacement. I took the element apart and replaced the two receptacles by cutting the old wires and using the included wire nuts to splice the wires. The two switches were easily replaced by carefully connecting the wires like they were hooked up on the old switches. The indicator light was also easily replaced, although snapping the lens into place seemed to take a lot of force (I was afraid that I might break it). All in all, quite easy.
Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.