A recirculating pump is used with standalone ice cube makers. It circulates the water over the top of the evaporator plate, which produces a layer of ice that is then broken down into ice cubes. If yo...
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If your freestanding ice maker is not producing ice properly, the ice cutter grid assembly may need replacing. The cutter grid is located within the main unit of the ice maker and contains thin, heate...
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This is a temperature sensor. It may also be known as an ice maker sensor and is used in conjunction with your ice machine. This piece is roughly 3.5 inches long, almost 2.5 inches wide, and includes ...
This is a drain fastener cap and is used in conjunction with your freezer/refrigerator. This model is almost 1.5 inches in diameter, half an inch thick, and is white in color. This piece will fasten t...
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This part is a drain pump for your ice maker. When you flush the reservoir on your ice maker to remove impurities, the drain pump is the part that removes the water from the reservoir. This is an auth...
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The connection ports on the water inlet valve are John Guess fittings. To remove, it is recommend to push the line in and then hold the ring in. While holding the ring in, pull the line out. To re-ins...
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diagnosed no water flow over evaporator checked voltage into pump then checked pump with ohm meter ordered pump and installed by removing access cover and water holding assembly installed new pump replaced water holding assembly and access cover and returned icemaker to service all is well
I removed the 2 screws on each side of the grid and disconnected the electrical plugs attached to the grid. I slid the broken unit out. I then carefully slid the new unit in making sure not to pinch any of the electrical wires. I replaced the mounting screws, plugged the 3 connectors back into place and turned the ice maker back on. I ha
... Read mored ice cubes within a couple of hours
I removed the cutter grid and unplugged the light bulb and wire heating plug ins. I slid the front cover plate off the cutting grid and loosened the screws on the front of the cutter grid and unthreaded the broken, top grid wire, leaving the bottom wire in place as it was in tact. I then threaded the new wire through the cutting gri
... Read mored frame starting in the center and threading right and then left. While the threading was not difficult, the wire was easily kinked. The process up to this point was only 15 minutes or so.
Once it was completely threaded, I worked for a couple of hours trying to smooth and straighten the wire so that is was somewhat taut and straight enough to create symetrical ice cubes. My frustration came in pulling on the wire from the center point to each outside ending point where it was to be wrapped around the screw and the screw tightened back down. The wire was fragile enough that it would break, by the time I was finished I barely had enough wire left to touch the screw let alone hook around the screw. After 3 or four days of successful opperation, the grid quit cutting again. As I took it apart, it was obvious that the weight of the ice was enough to pull the wire, that was already too short, away from the screw. I refastened it again, but think it is unlikely to hold. If it won't hold, I would be hard pressed to purchase another wire. I may bite the bullet and purchase the entire grid mechanism with the wires already installed. Even though the cost of the entire grid mechanism is $200 more than the purchase of another wire, it may well be worth the ease of installation!