Inglis Dryer Thermostats

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$19.67

Inglis Dryer Thermal Fuse

★★★★★

358 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11741460

Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519

The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.

Fixes these symptoms

Drum Not Spinning
Heat stays on after drum has stopped
Not Heating
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Installation Instructions

ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT

Dryer was working, but no heat.

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes. Read more...

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$28.02

Inglis Dryer Cycling Thermostat

★★★★★

97 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11741405

Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134

This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.

Fixes these symptoms

Heat stays on after drum has stopped
Not Heating
Too hot
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Installation Instructions

Tom from High Point, NC

Dryer blew cold air.

PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise! Read more...

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$36.65

Inglis Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit

★★★★★

135 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS334299

Manufacturer Part Number 279816

The thermal cut-off (Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit, Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit) prevents the dryer from overheating when the dryer high limit thermostat fails in a closed circuit condition. This part fails when the heater housing does not have adequate airflow through it; this is normally caused by restriction in the exhaust vent, plugged lint screen, or broken blower wheel. If this part fails, the dryer may not produce any heat. This kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees), jumper wires, and new female spade terminals. Both components are mounted on the heater housing, and measure approximately 2 inches long and 1.5 inches wide each. This kit comes in silver and is constructed of metal.

Fixes these symptoms

Heat stays on after drum has stopped
Not Heating
Too hot
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Installation Instructions

Vernon from Niceville, FL

No Heat

First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back off. Read more...

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$23.56

Inglis Dryer High Limit Thermostat

★★★★★

28 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11742185

Manufacturer Part Number WP3977767

A dryer high-limit thermostat (High Limit Thermostat, Hi-Limit Thermostat, Dryer High-Limit Thermostat) is a switch that is actuated by temperature change. This high limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism to keep the dryer from overheating. If your thermostat is malfunctioning, your dryer may not heat. This thermostat is located beneath the dryer vent at the back of the appliance. The terminal extension arm connects to the heater element terminal. You can test the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Test the thermostat for continuity at room temperature. If your reading indicates a defective thermostat, it must be replaced. This model is made of metal and plastic, and comes in silver/black. This part features 1 high limit thermostat with a terminal extension arm.

Fixes these symptoms

Not Heating
Too hot
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Installation Instructions

John from Indianapolis, IN

Dryer would take forever to dry clothes, even on high setting

I ordered all the thermal sensors for the dryer. They arrived two days later and they were the correct parts. It took me about 1/2 hour to replace all three sensors and now the dryer works like new again. My wife was very pleased, so was I. Read more...

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Your Price

$53.38

Inglis Dryer High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

★★★★★

21 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS334387

Manufacturer Part Number 279973

Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.

Fixes these symptoms

Not Heating
Too hot
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Installation Instructions

Vince from Kathleen, GA

Clothes would not Dry

I simply removed the back of the dryer to gain access to the heating element. Once I removed the heating element I figured I would also replace the thermostat and thermal fuse as preventive maintenance. Read more...

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Your Price

$75.10

Inglis Dryer Internal-Bias Thermostat

★★★★★

2 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11745959

Manufacturer Part Number WP8318268

This thermostat has an internal heater L155-25F. This thermostat controls the internal drying temperature.

Fixes these symptoms

Not Heating
Too hot
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Installation Instructions

JOSEPH from PUTNAM VALLEY, NY

gas dryer not heating up.

First removed front and drum to check gas valve and igniter. No gas, no ignition. Checked power to devices; none (check hot line to ground, not to neutral.). Removed back of control panel looking for a relay or something. Found none, but did find a wiring diagram. That is where the site really came in handy. Studied wiring diagram together with the exploded view and pictures of each part to come up with a troubleshooting plan. Took the back off as well as a cover inside. Tested each part with meter, again going to ground and not across the device. Of course, the final device before the gas valve, a one time thermal fuse, was the bad part. At first assumed just a bad part. Later wondered if fuse did it's job and another part was bad. Ordered and installed new thermostat just in case. Put everything together after a complete cleaning and everything is fine so far. Not a particularly hard job because I had the wiring diagram and access to parts select site. Would have been much harder without them. Took a long time because almost the entire dryer had to come apart. But it got a good cleaning because of it and found a couple of bucks in change to help offset the cost. Can't imagine what a service call would have cost. Read more...

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$57.43

Inglis Dryer Cycling Thermostat - Limit 135/155

★★★★★

8 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11743793

Manufacturer Part Number WP694674

Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature within the dryer. This particular cycling thermostat can be adjusted between 135 and 155 degrees Fahrenheit. The differential of this thermostat is 20 degrees, meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 20 degrees.

Fixes these symptoms

Too hot
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Installation Instructions

Raymond from Marlton, NJ

Dryer not staying hot. Heat shuts off and doesn't come back on.

Detach front door and pop off front panel. Replaced heating unit on right and all parts on unit. Replaced cycling timer and thermostor on left. The thermostat was the last item replaced. We did this on three stages. First we replaced heating element, still had problem. Then we replaced the high limit and cycling thermostats, still had problem. Had a repairman out. He could not figure it out, because there were no error codes. He suggested replacing the thermostor. We did that and it fixed our problem. We could have saved alot if we did that first, but no one mentioned that part. Read more...

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Your Price

$100.99

Inglis Dryer High Limit Thermostat - L295-50F

★★★★★

2 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11741456

Manufacturer Part Number WP3391914

This hi-limit thermostat acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element.

Fixes these symptoms

Too hot
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Installation Instructions

Vince from Kathleen, GA

Clothes would not Dry

I simply removed the back of the dryer to gain access to the heating element. Once I removed the heating element I figured I would also replace the thermostat and thermal fuse as preventive maintenance. Read more...

Your Price

$59.67

Inglis Dryer High Limit Thermostat

PartSelect Number PS11741822

Manufacturer Part Number WP35001092

This high limit thermostat controls the level of heat in a dryer to prevent overheating. It does this by measuring the temperature inside of the dryer drum and turns off when it reaches 260 degrees Fahrenheit. It turns back on once the temperature drops to 210 degrees Fahrenheit. If your dryer does not heat properly, or does not heat at all, it is important to replace the thermostat to fix this issue. Remember to unplug your dryer from the power source before beginning this installation. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for instructions.

Installation Instructions

Ted from TOPSHAM, ME

Heat for 1 minute then no heat

In my case, it was the solenoids. Take off the top be removing two screws on back, then slide the top back and off. Then remove little screws on top that hold the plastic bar with the electronic controls. This very easily will pop up, don’t unplug it, just lay it aside on top of machine. Under this you can see the white metal piece that contains the door. This whole piece comes off with the door in place. Look for four screws across the top, remove em. Then open the door, there are two facing out about 10 inches apart. Remove em. Now slide whole door out (sort of a hinge on the bottom) from the top. After it pops out from the tops, lean it out about 1 foot then pull up hard. It comes off at the bottom. Gently unplug the door, you will see the wire to unplug. I used a small screwdriver to gently pry the plug apart to get it started. After the front panel is removed, you can see the gas valve lower right. On top of the gas valve which is about 5 inches by 5 inches, you will two black cylinders on top of it. Cylinders that are 1.5 inches tall and about 1 inch wide. These are your solenoids. These create an electromagnetic field that opens the gas valve. There is a silver colored piece of metal on top of them holding them in place with two screws on top. Take this cover off the two black solenoids (Black cylinders). Then remove the cylinders after gently unplugging them. Do not just pull on the wires. Use an ohm meter to test the old ones after you slide them up and off what looks like a silver post. There are two metal tabs on one where the plug plugs onto it. Set your ohm meter for 1000 and touch the two metal tabs. Your meter should say there IS a circuit. If your meter says there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. The other solenoid has threee tabs. Hold your solenoid with the metal plugs down and the cylinder is standing upright. Have the three prongs facing you. The prong on the left as you face the solenoid it is your common. Touch this prong and then with the other wire touch the middle prong. You need to see a circuit that is closed, or connected. If there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. Now touch your two testing wires on the two outside prongs. You still need to see a circuit. If no circuit you have bad solenoid. Replace em. The solenoids die slowly over years. Your dryer will start to take longer to dry. This is sign of dying solenoids. To the left of the gas valve you can see the sensors that determine if the air coming out of the dryer is damp or dry. Replace them at the same time. Where you are the burner, on the left of the 5 inch wide tube it is in you will see a sensor, rectangle shape 2 inch by 1 inch. This determines if the lighter is glowing. Replace it at this same time. On top of the burner tube, top right, hard to reach, there is another sensor that shuts it all down if it is over heating. There are two wires plugged into it. Use a MAGNETIC and very short philips head to remove it. Slowly, don’t drop the screws. Pull the whole sensor out while plugged in, then unplug it using a screw driver to help get it started unplugging. When the new sensor goes in, screw it on place first. Do not try to screw the new one in with wires on it. It is not easy, but you can do it. Use a small flash light etc to help see. Once screwed on, plug in your wires. It does not matter which wire goes on which end. So after you replace all your sensors (4 total) and you replaced those two round black solenoids, you can put it all back together.

Do not buy cheap piece of sh-t parts. The cheap ones are made in China with short cuts, low quality metal and ceramics. Cheap. Use authentic Maytag parts, each sensor should be like $30. I replaced all of mine for $180. I now have a brand new unit as far as the electronics are concerned, good for another 10 years. Read more...