Kenmore Washer Bearings

Your Price

$131.79

Kenmore Washer Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

★★★★★

11 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS3503261

Manufacturer Part Number W10435302

This kit includes the shaft, 3 bearings, seals , grease, adhesive and the spanner nut, which is NOT sold separately. Also may require a bearing driver tool to install. PS3503307

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Installation Instructions

DENNIS from OELWEIN, IA

Washer was noisy, Top seal and bearing bad

You better be confident in your repair abilities before you try this. Get the washer to a large open area, like your garage, because there are a lot of parts. Take off the back, pop the top, unsnap and remove the top ring off outer tub, take out the agitator, take out the inner tub, disconnect the pumps and electrical wires, take screw out of rotor on bottom and remove rotor, take out 4 bolts to remove motor magnet ring, and now you may be ready to unhook the outer tub from the 4 supports (springs) and lift it out of the metal frame. Then unscrew the bottom nut on the shaft, use blocks to hold the tub in place, and carefully tap the old shaft and bearings out. The instructions that came with the kit helped. The shaft and top seal comes out the top first. Then you can tap out upper bearing and then the lower bearing and spacers.Instructions called for a special tool to install the bearings but you can carefully tap them in. You will need blocks to support the tub while you tap them. First block under the tub and install top bearing, then flip over and use several blocks to hold tub while you drop the shaft, spacers, and tap lower bearing in. I did not need to tap on the inner ring of the bearings, just the outer ring. Be very careful not to damage the seal in the bearings. That's why you must tap them in careful and slow. Them install the nut on the bottom. You need to hold the shaft with damaging it while you tighten the nut. I used the hard nylon gear from the inner tub which I was replacing with a new one. Then put it all back together. Read more...

Your Price

$77.44

Kenmore Washer Spin Bearing

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS446536

Manufacturer Part Number 3204405

The spin bearing, used for your washer, is located at the bottom of the outer tub near the transmission. The spin bearing carries the transmission shaft in the drive system, therefore ensuring the shaft is spun properly during its spin cycle. If your spin cycle makes loud or odd noises, replacing the bearing could be a solution to your problem. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions. As a safety precaution make sure to unplug appliance from the power source.

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
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Installation Instructions

Patrick from Humble, TX

Noisy spin cycle

1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new. Read more...

Your Price

$11.14

Kenmore Washer Spin Tube Bearing

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS11746369

Manufacturer Part Number WP8546462

This spin tube T-Bearing is an inch long. Sold individually.

Your Price

$83.41

Kenmore Washer Centerpost Bearing and Seal Assembly

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS334447

Manufacturer Part Number 285203

This assembly comes with one transmission stem seal, two center post bearings, and three agitator shaft seals.

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
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Your Price

$48.20

Kenmore Washer Tub Bearing

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS11711139

Manufacturer Part Number MAP61913708

Tub bearing. This part is very difficult to install. The manufacturer recommends replacing the complete rear tub and bearing assembly.

Installation Instructions

Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ

Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle

I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out Read more...