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Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
First I removed the rear cover, located at the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I cleaned out the dirt & dust on and around the compressor. The relay has a cover, that is secured with a spring loaded clip. To release the clip, push in with your fingers, while disengaging the end clip with a screwdriver. Once one side is off the other lifts off. Remove cove exposing the relay. There is one wire terminated, with a spade clip, remove it. With a strait blade screwdriver, pry the relay off the 2 post it slides on to. (Don't be surprised if it breaks into pieces, as they are sometimes brittle. ) Slide the new relay onto the 2 posts, replace the wire onto the right terminal, and replace the relay cover & clip. Replace the rear cover. Plug in and test.
unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy
it appears some one damaged the gasket in the front
First, I removed the old gasket by ripping it out of front,
Second, I cleansed the rust (no idea how that get there, maybe it's a cheap fridge)
Third, I took some boiling water from the water boiler and dip the new gasket in it to "smooth" out the gasket and make it more "pliable" (really, it didn't seem like much happened, nonetheless, I did it to make sure I don't have to struggle if it comes to that)
Forth, I slap the new gasket in the top corner (inner edge closes to the fridge) and work across then down. But somehow after everything is accomplished, the gasket at the bottom appears bulged so I re-did it from the bottom up. and double checked on the firmness by checking with a flash light w/ the fridge closed (I made sure I did this near night time lol)
Lastly, I did love to thank PartSelect for shipping it out so quick. I ordered on Sunday, they shipped it on Monday and I received it on Tuesday morning at work. Incredible speedy service that even RadioShack overnight service took 3 "overnights" to recieve.
Removed 2 phillips head screws to remove ice maker (could have just loosened them) Pulled fan off of shaft Removed 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor. reversed process to install new motor & fan blade. Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.
Panel hot to touch between freezer & refrigerator. Motor hot, fan not rotating.
Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.
First turned off power and removed top shelf. Then I used a flathead to slowly pry the switch out by the two sides. You just anlge ita bit and it slideds out easily. Then I disconnected the wires from the old switch, connected the new one and installed the new switch by snapping it back into the cutout.
The defrost timer was very easy to replace. Two screws and one electrical bracket and that was it. The defrost thermostat required the removal of the freezer shelves and rear panel. A philips for the panel screws and a slotted screw driver to wedge in-between the side and rear panel. The rear panelcame right out. The defrost thermostat is very accessible simply mounted to a metal bracket on the evaporator coil. My only problem was the new thermostat did not include instructions or a picture of a correct installation. The old thermostat did not seem it was installed correctly and it wasn't. It was simply hanging away from the evaporator coil, sort of out in space. Seeing the "V" shape on the new thermostat and metal mounting bracket configuration it was simple to see that it was suppose to fit snug against the evaporator coil. In addition to using the provided twist-on wire insolators I soldered the two electrical connections leading from the frig to the new thermostat. Reverse the above procedure and the job it finished. Now running better than new.
Look were timer was located, in my refigerator is next to the dial to ajust the temperature. used a screwdriver to get panel off. replaced timer then used a straight screwdriver to advance timer to turn on compessor . monitor temperature . checked out.
After disconnecting refrig. line cord .Removed phillips screw on left side of air distribution console where temp control is located. removed temp control knob and two screws witch mounts temp control . Disengaged temp control capulary tube and two electrical connections . Removed defective thermostat and plastic sleeve from same ... them reversed procedure to in stall. It took about 40 minutes for the whole procedure. Confession.... I worked for GE appliance repair many years ago . 50 years ago I could have done it in 15 minutes . Old folks just slow down something terrible.
Both the freezer and refridgerator seals were leaking
We took the old seals off, T\they really just peal off, and replaced with the new ones.We were not really sure how they went on, because there really was no instructions with the seals, but we figured it out. After we really figured it out and got started, it was pretty easy. The only instructions that come with it is how to prep the seals before they go on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.