This burner cap is for cooktops. Burner cap fits on top of the burner head. The burner cap protects the burner head from spills and helps spread out the burner flame for even heating.
This burner cap is for cooktops. Burner cap fits on top of the burner head. The burner cap protects the burner head from spills and helps spread out the burner flame for even heating.
Sold individually.
This burner cap is for cooktops. Burner cap fits on top of the burner head. The burner cap protects the burner head from spills and helps spread out the burner flame for even heating.
Getting to the igniter is trivial, only requiring the removal of the stove bottom (two set screws) and a heat shield (the heat shield is held in place by screws with size 20 star-driver heads). At this point a splice could be made to the original wires, IF ceramic wire nuts were included with the replacement igniter (but, alas, they are n
... Read moreot). IF a splice were made the repair would be a very easy, 10-minute job.
To replace the igniter then requires the complete removal of the back of the range (17, size 20 star-driver, screws, if I remember correctly), plus the removal of an additional heat shield (one more screw). Then one must carefully lift and free the back from tabs on both sides that are set into slots. (Oh, and you probably want to loosen the electrical cord shield that interferes with the back coming off.) The new igniter wire plug is only then very easily re-attached to existing harness. Everything is then replaced to finish the repair.
None of this is difficult, if you don't mind moving your range away from the wall and dealing with on the order of 20 screws. Personally, I think I would have rather found an igniter with ceramic wire nuts to splice to the original wires (certainly not as elegant as replacing igniter and wires entirely, but far quicker and easier).
