This door switch is for dishwashers.
The door switch detects when the door is closed so the dishwasher can start.
Unplug the dishwasher or shut off the house circuit breaker before installing th...
This is a leak sensor designed for use with a range of Samsung dishwashers. This sensor is designed to detect if water begins leaking from the water supply. If/when it detects a leak, it stops the wat...
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Richard
January 6, 2020
Power won't come on. It is not the electrical supply that is working. Any solutions?
For model number DW80K7050UG
Hello Richard and thank you for writing.
You should try a hard reset first. Go to your breaker box, turn the breaker for your unit off, wait 5 minutes and turn the breaker back on. If this does not fix this problem then your control panel PS11775928 might be faulty and possibly needs to be replaced. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Mach has been running fine till last night.Put mach on about 2100 hrs, at 0245 was still on with code lc in display window
For model number DW80K7050UG
Hi Eddie,
Thank you for your question. The LC error code indicates that the leak sensor in the dishwasher detects a water leak or moisture. To clear the error code, simply remove power to the dishwasher for 15 minutes. If the code reappears check the dishwasher to see if it is actually leaking. You will need to check the pump, the door gasket, the water inlet valve, the dispensers and grommets, the spray arm, the float and float switch and the hoses and hose clamps. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Ferrell Lee
July 1, 2021
How to separate display board from control panel. The two mated together are extremely tight.
For model number DW80K7050UG
Hello Ferrell Lee, Thank you for the question. The Plastic housing is made to be molded together with the Control Board and they do not come apart. We hope this helps!
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David
January 20, 2020
Dishwasher not filling, replaced water inlet valve and drain pump.
For model number DW80K7050UG
Hello and thank you for writing.
This could possibly indicate a malfunctioning door latch assembly PS8764558, you should check for signs of damage, and replace the part(s) as necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
This is not a repair for the faint of heart. You will have to pretty much disassemble the entire dishwasher to replace the main pump assembly. And it’s not cheap, between the pump assembly and the hose...it was over $300...
This dishwasher is Junk...been through 2 motherboards, plastic internal spray arms...and finally a pump a
... Read moressembly...if you own one and the pump begins to leak....shorts the pump motor out....if it gets this far...but a new dishwasher.
Repair was fairly simple. Remove torx screws making sure that front control panel does not separate too much from door panel. Not a big deal if it does, just a little more work when putting it back together. Replacing broken part is plug and play. Reseat door panel and control panel and secure with previously removed torx screws. I’ve pro
... Read morebably made it sound a bit more complicated than is really is.
1. I always record the model number and serial number of every appliance I buy. Saves me aggravation later. For DIY-repair people, this is the most important, universal tip I can give. 2. With the model number in hand, I went to partselect.com and bought a new seal. For things like this, I actively avoid online superstores whose name
... Read mores sound like a really large river since I've received crappy parts from countries who names rhyme with "mynah" and the parts don't fit or I'm replacing them again in another year. Partselect items fit and work. 3. I put the new seal in a bowl of very warm water to make it more flexible. Since its a washer seal, I know it doesn't matter if it gets wet. 4. I put put a drop cloth (could use a sheet of cardboard from an old appliance box, or something similar) on the floor to cut down on the drippy mess. There's always a few drips. 5. I took several close-up pictures of the old seal while it's still in the appliance. Cell phones make this easy -- better to have a record of how it goes together. I do the same every time I'm disassembling appliances, but in this case the the door seal is right inside the the door, so I don't need many photos. But close-up photos of the ends will show how much overhang to expect during the replacement. 6. I partially pulled out the old seal. Took one more photo where it's partially pulled out to make sure I understand the orientation when I put it back in. Then finished pulling it out and set it aside. 7. Cleaned out the groove where the old seal was, and cleaned out the door edges well so the new seal can fit right. Old toothbrushes (don't throw them out, they're way too useful) and cotton swabs to clean any gunk out of crevices. 8. On this model, the door latch is in the center of the washer, so that's where the middle of the new seal goes. 9 Take the seal out of the water, shake off excess water, and stretch istlightly to help straighten it. Hold the ends of the seal together. where it folds in half is the midpoint. Grab it by that midpoint. 10, Press the seal into the groove starting with the midpoint directly below the latch so it will be even length from left to right. 11. Continued pressing the seal into place down the sides. Observe that if I've done this correctly, each end overhangs onto the bottom of the tub by approximately the same amount. 12. Using the HANDLE, and NOT the blade of a butter knife, pressed the seal into the groove firmly as all points along the seal. DO NOT use anything sharp to this step, you don't want to nick the seal. DID NOT **slide** the butter knife along, simply pressed it in repeatedly, moved a half-inch down the seal, and repeated. The goal is to NOT stretch the seal, but simply to make sure its fully in the groove. 13. Checked the dishwasher for anything out of place. Don't skip this step -- you have the appliance open and your tools out -- best time for preventative maintenance. Also a good time to verify that the dishwasher is properly leveled -- this influences leaks as well. 14. On this model, there is a vent in the door that lets air out when the washer fills, and lets air in when it empties. This was absolutely "gunked up" with soap sludge, and I spent more time cleaning the vent than I did in replacing the seal. But without a properly-functioning vent, pressure builds up inside the tub during filling, and water can be pushed out an otherwise-mediocre seal. I wonder if I had caught that first if I could have avoided replacing the seal. 15. Ran the washer on several "quick" cycles to ensure no leaks. 16. Put everything back together. Put away the tools. Went to the "toy store" and bought myself a new tool (an oscillating toolkit this time) as a reward for a job well done. Besides, the saw will get used when I re-tile the main bath, which I've been putting off.