This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.75
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The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns th...
$118.75
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The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evapo...
$34.68
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The crisper drawer is clear plastic and is located inside the refrigerator. It is used to store fruits and vegetables at a certain temperature to ensure food will last longer. If your drawer is cracke...
$116.39
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This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$79.16
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This is a bimetal defrost thermostat for your refrigerator. It stops the fridge from overheating during the defrost cycle by protecting the evaporator. This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperatu...
$42.57
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The single water inlet valve, also known as a water solenoid valve, is used for refrigerators. This part is a solenoid-operated switch that releases water from the supply line to the water valve and i...
$71.61
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removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o
... Read morepens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read moret's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!